John Gives Roxanne’s the Green Light
I fell in love with the Sonoran-style hot dog in 2010 on a trip to Tucson. I mean, what’s not to love? A bacon-wrapped hot dog loaded with beans, onion, jalapenos, mustard and mayo–it’s the indiscriminate eater’s dream, really. In my area, however, they’re a bit hard to come by. Last year I met our hot dog overlord, Mike, at Que Padre in Boston for an excellent version, but that’s a 25-plus mile drive for me. So imagine my joy at finding that I could cut that distance in half and get my Sonoran on.
But was it worth the drive? Well, if the headline hasn’t already clued you in, let’s take a look.
Roxanne’s Taqueria is a “Mexican street food” joint tucked away in a strip mall in Stoughton, MA. Along with what looked like quite-good tacos, tortas, quesadillas and burritos, they offer a rock-solid, textbook Sonoran dog. Now, I am going to admit that I worried at first. I asked for the dog and the kid behind the counter pulled a bit of a wtf face. I worried that maybe the Sonoran dogs only came out on special days. I didn’t feel any better about it when he asked the other guy if they had any Sonorans. My worries were slightly assuaged when he pulled a pair of sizable bacon-wrapped dogs out of a bin in the fridge. (Then my thought was, So how long have those been in there?) Maybe it was just the kid’s lack of social skills shining through, but I needn’t have worried. That love-encased Kayem all-beef dog hit the flat top to get the bacon going. Later in the process, when the bacon had crisped up nice and the dog was browning, it was split and turned face-down. I believe they also warm up the classic bolillo roll as well. Then come the avalanche of toppings: red pintos a-plenty, tomato, onion, a jalapeno sauce with nice texture and kick, mustard and an aioli.
This is a very hearty dog. The bacon is perfect, just to the crisp side of chewy, and it stands in for the snap on this (I believe) skinless dog. The toppings are fresh and overflowing. This is a grab-a-fork dog. The bolillo is soft and delicious and more or less up to the task of keeping the whole show together. But do be warned–with any Sonoran dog, there is so much going on in the toppings department, you’re going to end up wearing some of it. Or at least doing your makeup with it. I knocked down two of these luscious killers (at about $5.85 a throw) and came out of Roxanne’s quite dog-satisfied. When the blog crew hit Que Padre, we all agreed that they served up a very fine Sonoran. I would put Roxanne’s easily on par with them, and it stood up very well to memory of my Tucson introduction. This is a trip I’ll make again.
95 Sharon St